March 29,
2018
Today I’m
writing about the poor and oppressed. I’ll be writing about compassion and
darkness. I’ll wrap things up with a brief update on life here and how things
are going.
A few
months back I was in Pemba about to catch a flight to Maputo. I just had
breakfast at a reasonable priced café – espresso, bottle of water, and an
omelette with French fries for about 7 USD, an affordable price on my current
living stipend. Before I catch any flight out of Pemba I have a routine: I
arrive at the bus station in pemba and grab a transfer to the café near the
Teacher Training School for a nice breakfast, go back up to the bus station
across the street from the airport, buy some peanuts and bananas, and then head
into the airport to check-in. On this specific sunny and overly sticky day
(thank you humidity!), I pass a young boy as I’m walking past the fence for the
airport parking.
Asking for
food and money is a normalcy in many cities, and as an apparent foreigner or
just someone with enough finances to catch a flight, that makes even more
people in Pemba ask for some money or food. I have two main strategies – say hi
and then in Makua say “I don’t want to give you my money” OR just ignore the
person, no eye contact, no greeting, no acknowledgement of their presence. When
I use some Makua, most people just start laughing and shouting back more Makua
phrases. The request for money gets lost in the novelty of a foreigner who
learned some of the local language.
Ignoring
someone completely is a practice I abhorred in the States. I thought it
degraded people by not even recognizing their humanity. In Mozambique, eye
contact with a vendor means “YES I WANT TO BUY. COME TO ME!” So I quickly learned
not to look at vendors I was interested in – I don’t like being hassled so I’ll
try to sneak some glances with my peripheral vision. Oftentimes, I still feel
guilty when I completely ignore someone here. I try not to do it as much
anymore. Especially since I now speak some Makua I don’t need to ignore people
– I can acknowledge their presence and have learned how to reject their request
in polite but cultural acceptable ways.
So jumping
back to the airport – I’m crossing the sidewalk and about to enter the gate of
the airport. A young boy is walking on the sidewalk in front of the main fence
heading in the general direction of the bus station. I’m eating some of my
freshly roasted and purchased peanuts. The boy is clearly just walking passed –
he’s not begging or trying to get things out of people. He takes one glance at
the peanuts in my bag and I can see it in his eyes – hunger. Being here long
enough, you see what hunger looks like. You notice how different someone’s
personality is when they’re hungry. I keep walking and enter the airport
parking lot. Then I pause. I stop. He’s hungry. I have so many more peanuts
than I need. I always buy more than I need – I figure I’ll run into someone I
know or another PCV and share some. I turn around and sure enough the boy is
still walking but watching me. I signal to him to come to me and give him a
heaping handful of peanuts. He is very grateful and thanks me.
Oftentimes
we turn off the compassionate parts of ourselves – I do it and I’ve done it.
It’s easier to face pain, suffering, hungry, and desolation when we barely
acknowledge it. It’s really easy to say, “I can’t give out food, I can’t give
out money, that wouldn’t be sustainable!” And yes, that’s not sustainable. It
comes back to the “Give a man a fish, feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish,
feed him for a lifetime”. Great proverb and I love the idea of building
sustainable programs that endure overtime. It’s similar to building and
studying great companies – I’m thinking about Built to Last by James Collins: those rare companies, systems, and
structures that last beyond the founders lifetime.
However, I
also take issue with the oversimplified and overuse of the fish proverb. Here’s
the issue I face: I have a fishing pole and a lake with fish in it. My community
has no fishing pole, no bait, and no lake with fish. Depending on what program
or aspect of my community we’re specifically discussing, maybe they have a Lake
but no fish and no pole, maybe they have the pole and bait but no lake with
fish. The problem remains that the knowledge of how to fish is not the only
barrier. Additionally, it’s nearly impossible to learn anything on an empty
stomach. Even the best of teachers would struggle in teaching how to fish if
all of their students haven’t eaten in the last 24-plus hours. So, would it not
make more sense to give a man a fish AND teach him how to fish AND then
determine if the man even has a fishing pole, bait, and a lake with fish in it?
I don’t
have a solution or know the answer. However, here’s what I’m going to do: when
I cross paths with a young boy who is hungry and I’m snacking away at peanuts - I’m not going to hesitate or think about,
I’ll just give the kid some dang peanuts. It’s not sustainable. It doesn’t
solve any issue or anything long term in the boys life. Maybe it creates
dependency, maybe it doesn’t. Either way, at least to some extent I have a
moral obligation to – at a bare minimum – give of my excess to prevent the pain
and suffering of a fellow human being.
Last
Saturday we did a workday at my house. For dinner I cooked a chicken and a
large vat of French Fries. I knew there was not enough chicken for myself, my
sitemate, my housemate, and the 4 boys who helped me that day. I did what I
felt like I ought to do. I served my
sitemate and housemate and gave the remaining chicken to the boys as they
watched “The Incredible Hulk” in Portuguese. It’s rare that families have meat.
It’s even more rare for there to be enough meat for it to be a main portion of
the meal.
I don’t
know what the “best” thing to do is. I don’t know if it’s smart giving out free
peanuts or treating the boys to a nicer meal. Part of our responsibility as
PCVs is to start projects that can continue after us.
If we do
our jobs correctly, we can pass on what we’ve learned to community members who
can continue what we started. I don’t think my community truly needs me. They
need food, clean water, etc. Here’s the big difference – I think they need
food, water, clothes for school, more access to quality healthcare, and the
likes. But here’s what my community members are saying they do and do not need
– they don’t say they need more chicken or vegetables or life saving medicine.
They say they need Jobs, energy, and a TV. It’s no wonder people only take
enough of their malaria medication until they start feeling better
(unfortunately this leads to drug resistance). Then the can save the extra
pills for the future or sell them or give them to family.
People here
are constantly complaining about the lack of jobs. I used to think it was
amazing how so many families have small scale businesses! They make badjias
(bean patties kind of) and corn based drinks to sell in the market, they
collect firewood from the bush to sell in town, they plant peanuts to sell and
send their kids to school, they raise chickens and pigs as investment and
savings tools. However, these same families still say they want their kids to
have jobs – not start entrepreneurial adventures. At first, that seems from
anti-cultural to me. We regard entrepreneurs as these people with unique,
special, and creative gifts! People willing to risk a lot to gain a lot.
Here,
people want stability and safety. They want to work for a regular income so
they can buy food themselves, not be freely given food. Lastly, they want
energy and a TV. There’s a lot of downtime here and not a lot to do. People
want ways to be entertained and to fill there time.
Overall,
our American culture should be screaming “They have the perfect attitudes!!”
They want work not handouts (yes there are still plenty of people begging for
handouts, but our cities are no different). I see lots of opportunities for
business development in my local town – the Peanut Butter is just one. Someone
could easily start a coconut farm. There’s plenty of land and the climate is
just right. 30 acres would be enough to do coconut oil or butter. It’d be
relatively low cost of investment with a decent payoff if you had enough to
supply to a company in Europe (coconut could be replicated with any handful of
tropical plants that can be used to extract oil – Moringa for example).
Locally, there’s a need for more vegetable farmers in my town. Vegetables are
extremely seasonal here. A 60 meter well, some drip irrigation lines, and
blight-resistant seeds and you could be off to the races by cultivating a
product for the local market. Build up to 10-15-plus acres and you’d be able to
supply other networks in the northern region of Mozambique. CHICKENS! The
frozen chickens in Namuno are imported from Nampula and even South Africa. They
travel anywhere from 500 to over 1000 km to reach Namuno. You’d need a regular
supply of chicks, some land to grow soya and corn (so you can make your own
feed), and a bi-yearly trip to Nampula to buy supplements for your feed.
Another local market opportunity that would easily expand to the northern
region of Mozambique where there are not enough chicken farms. Lastly, a
chicken-egg farm! Eggs up here cost 10-12 mets per whereas in the south of
Mozambique they are 6-7 mets per. The north has no large scale egg producer.
Yet again, another local market waiting for someone to tap into.
Overall, I
think there’s plenty of opportunity. There are also plenty of barriers and
issues, don’t get me wrong. After being in Mozambique for 18+ months now, here
is what I think they really need: a few people willing to invest money and live
here for a few years to start some businesses.
Update –
Overall,
life for me has been on the up and up the last month-plus. I wake up early,
5-5:30 AM, make some coffee, and read for two hours. Then I workout for two
hours. I shower and head off to teach at the high school. After morning
classes, I come back home and work for a bit – grading, lesson planning,
finishing a project in the yard, dishes, or laundry (never a shortage of
tasks!). I take a nap at 1 PM for 30 minutes, prepare for my next class and go
teach. Afterwards, I come back and work on a project in the yard, spend some
time at the Peanut Butter association, or read my book. So far this year I’ve
become a book fiend and it feels amazing!! Dinner, cleaning up the backyard,
and I’m in bed by around 7:30 PM. Some more light reading for an hour or so and
I flip the switch to bed!
Maybe for
some people it sounds like a boring routine. I love it. There’s plenty of
adventure mixed into my life – for example I randomly met the judge of my
district the last time I was in pemba! He said we need to have drinks and spend
time together while in Namuno – unfortunetly all of his family lives in Pemba
but he is only allowed to leave Namuno once or twice a month. So he said he
gets pretty lonely in Namuno. Locals tend to be afraid or extremely polite of
people with high respective positions. So, no family and few people in the town
who want to sit and drink with him. At the end of the day, I think we’re all a
bit lonely at least. What really sucks is when you are alone feeling lonely.
It’s better to be with people knowing that you’re all feeling a bit lonely.
May we all
continue to carry the audacity for hope that we CAN and WILL build a better
future.
With all of
my heart,
~Daniel
P.S. I’ll
be back in the Seattle area in the beginning of June for my sister’s wedding.
Shoot me a message if you’ll have time to kick it!